INSTALLATION GUIDE
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Please note: This installation guide has been written specifically for New Zealand. You can also download it here. |
Please ensure that the person installing the flooring reads this guide carefully prior to installation.
Quality Floors Ltd will not be held responsible if installation is not done according to this guide!
If you have any questions please ensure you contact us PRIOR to commencing installation.
Quality Floors Ltd will not be held responsible if installation is not done according to this guide!
If you have any questions please ensure you contact us PRIOR to commencing installation.
INTRODUCTION
Lalegno has been invented in and designed for the Northern Hemisphere (e.g. Europe, USA/Canada, Russia).
These countries have a dryer climate with a lower relative humidity (RH) than New Zealand.
RH for your comparison:
Europe, USA and Australia have an average RH of approx. 50 - 60 %
These countries have a dryer climate with a lower relative humidity (RH) than New Zealand.
RH for your comparison:
Europe, USA and Australia have an average RH of approx. 50 - 60 %
RH |
Summer |
Winter |
Average |
Auckland |
74% |
84% |
79% |
Wellington |
67% |
78% |
73% |
Christchurch |
73% |
84% |
79% |
Queenstown |
75% |
83% |
79% |
The construction method in New Zealand is also different compared to those markets:
Due to the high humidity and different construction method, it is in your own best interest to install a Lalegno timber floor in a way that has been proven to work in New Zealand for more than 10 years.
Based on our experience in New Zealand, Quality Floors Ltd's preferred installation method is glue down. However, it is also possible to install Lalegno as a floating floor.
The most suitable installation method for your situation depends on a number of variables.
Please contact us PRIOR to installation to get advice on which method to employ.
Lalegno requires extra care when installing on underfloor heating. Please ensure you contact us PRIOR to installation to discuss.
- Houses are built with a larger footprint as opposed to high rise buildings
- Particle board or plywood substrates are more common
- Larger open plan areas for timber flooring on one level
- Concrete slab is poured to U3 standard (often not level enough for timber flooring)
Due to the high humidity and different construction method, it is in your own best interest to install a Lalegno timber floor in a way that has been proven to work in New Zealand for more than 10 years.
Based on our experience in New Zealand, Quality Floors Ltd's preferred installation method is glue down. However, it is also possible to install Lalegno as a floating floor.
The most suitable installation method for your situation depends on a number of variables.
Please contact us PRIOR to installation to get advice on which method to employ.
Lalegno requires extra care when installing on underfloor heating. Please ensure you contact us PRIOR to installation to discuss.
PRIOR TO INSTALLATION
STORAGE:
Store the unopened Lalegno packs in a dry, covered place, off the ground (on pallet or similar).
ACCLIMATISING:
We recommend storing the unopened packs in the installation area for 1 to 2 weeks.
Do not open the packs prior to installing!
TIMING OF INSTALLATION:
Lalegno should be installed second to last in the building/renovation process (carpet is last).
Lalegno is pre-finished so avoid as much traffic (builders, trades people, etc) as possible once installed.
Install kitchen units and similar prior to Lalegno (especially when installing Lalegno as a floating floor). Heavy units will create pressure on the timber and potentially lift the floor in a different area (does not apply to glue down installations).
We do not recommend covering the timber floor after installation to protect it against foot traffic. Dust and dirt will still find its way between the timber and the cover.
If the installed flooring needs to be covered, we recommend using "Ram Board" or similar and covering the entire timber floor.
Ensure you don't use any tape directly on the floor: fix the "Ram Board" by applying low tac masking tape to skirting boards instead.
Overlay cardboard in the middle of the room, and join using tape on top of the cardboard, not on the timber floor.
If tape is used on the timber floor, the coating may peel off when the tape is removed. In addition, as soon as a timber floor is exposed to UV light, it starts changing the colour, hence we recommend covering the entire area.
Store the unopened Lalegno packs in a dry, covered place, off the ground (on pallet or similar).
ACCLIMATISING:
We recommend storing the unopened packs in the installation area for 1 to 2 weeks.
Do not open the packs prior to installing!
TIMING OF INSTALLATION:
Lalegno should be installed second to last in the building/renovation process (carpet is last).
Lalegno is pre-finished so avoid as much traffic (builders, trades people, etc) as possible once installed.
Install kitchen units and similar prior to Lalegno (especially when installing Lalegno as a floating floor). Heavy units will create pressure on the timber and potentially lift the floor in a different area (does not apply to glue down installations).
We do not recommend covering the timber floor after installation to protect it against foot traffic. Dust and dirt will still find its way between the timber and the cover.
If the installed flooring needs to be covered, we recommend using "Ram Board" or similar and covering the entire timber floor.
Ensure you don't use any tape directly on the floor: fix the "Ram Board" by applying low tac masking tape to skirting boards instead.
Overlay cardboard in the middle of the room, and join using tape on top of the cardboard, not on the timber floor.
If tape is used on the timber floor, the coating may peel off when the tape is removed. In addition, as soon as a timber floor is exposed to UV light, it starts changing the colour, hence we recommend covering the entire area.
SUBFLOORS / FLOOR PREPARATION
Lalegno hardwood flooring can be installed on concrete or wooden substrates (particle board, ply or existing T&G floors). It is also possible to install Lalegno on existing cork or vinyl (floating floor installation only).
The subfloor must be dry, clean and level to within 3mm over 3 linear meters (industry standard). To check if floor is level, use a straight edge at least 2m in length over the entire area (Image 1). Any deviation in height should not exceed 2-3mm.
The subfloor must be dry, clean and level to within 3mm over 3 linear meters (industry standard). To check if floor is level, use a straight edge at least 2m in length over the entire area (Image 1). Any deviation in height should not exceed 2-3mm.
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If the subfloor exceeds this given tolerance we recommend the following:
Wooden substrate: fasten any loose floor boards / panels, then sand or use a levelling component Concrete substrate: grind or use a levelling component Existing cork or vinyl: remove existing floor, sand / grind subfloor and use a levelling component |
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GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION (recommended)
On a Wooden Substrate:
Check that the subfloor is level and prepare the floor if necessary as per above.
We always recommend sanding the subfloor to achieve the best bonding with the adhesive.
If installing onto existing floorboards we recommend installing Lalegno across the existing floorboards.
On a Concrete Substrate:
Check that the subfloor is level and prepare the floor if necessary as per above.
If gluing Lalegno direct onto concrete, the relative humidity (RH) of the concrete must get measured.
New Zealand's flooring industry regulations stipulate that the RH of a concrete slab must be less than 70% to allow installing a timber floor without first applying a moisture barrier onto the concrete.
If the RH exceeds 70% you MUST apply a moisture barrier prior to installation.
Floor NZ (www.floornz.org.nz), the NZ governing body for standards in the flooring industry, names the hygrometer to be the only appropriate instrument to measure the RH of a concrete slab.
Please contact us for the correct usage of a hygrometer.
The majority of professional timber floor installation companies apply a moisture barrier regardless of RH reading to minimise the risk of potential moisture issues.
We ALWAYS recommend you apply a moisture barrier from trusted brands such as Bostik, Selleys or Sika (Image 2).
Adhesive:
We recommend industry standard adhesives in sausage form (Sika, Bostik, etc). These are applied with a sausage gun onto the back of the board. The adhesive should be applied zig-zag wise, about 100mm apart (Image 3). Install board by board and try to avoid adhesive on the surface. If adhesive gets on the surface, wipe it off straight away with a damp cloth. There is no need for gluing the interlocking system.
If gluing onto concrete and using a moisture barrier, ensure you use a system = moisture barrier and adhesive from the same brand.
Check that the subfloor is level and prepare the floor if necessary as per above.
We always recommend sanding the subfloor to achieve the best bonding with the adhesive.
If installing onto existing floorboards we recommend installing Lalegno across the existing floorboards.
On a Concrete Substrate:
Check that the subfloor is level and prepare the floor if necessary as per above.
If gluing Lalegno direct onto concrete, the relative humidity (RH) of the concrete must get measured.
New Zealand's flooring industry regulations stipulate that the RH of a concrete slab must be less than 70% to allow installing a timber floor without first applying a moisture barrier onto the concrete.
If the RH exceeds 70% you MUST apply a moisture barrier prior to installation.
Floor NZ (www.floornz.org.nz), the NZ governing body for standards in the flooring industry, names the hygrometer to be the only appropriate instrument to measure the RH of a concrete slab.
Please contact us for the correct usage of a hygrometer.
The majority of professional timber floor installation companies apply a moisture barrier regardless of RH reading to minimise the risk of potential moisture issues.
We ALWAYS recommend you apply a moisture barrier from trusted brands such as Bostik, Selleys or Sika (Image 2).
Adhesive:
We recommend industry standard adhesives in sausage form (Sika, Bostik, etc). These are applied with a sausage gun onto the back of the board. The adhesive should be applied zig-zag wise, about 100mm apart (Image 3). Install board by board and try to avoid adhesive on the surface. If adhesive gets on the surface, wipe it off straight away with a damp cloth. There is no need for gluing the interlocking system.
If gluing onto concrete and using a moisture barrier, ensure you use a system = moisture barrier and adhesive from the same brand.
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FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION
On a Wooden Substrate:
Check that the subfloor is level and prepare the floor if necessary as per above.
If installing onto existing floorboards we recommend installing Lalegno across the existing floorboards.
On a Concrete Substrate:
Check that the subfloor is level and prepare the floor if necessary as per above.
Relative humidity (RH) of the concrete must be measured prior to installation.
We strongly recommend putting a plastic sheet (PE) of 0.2mm or thicker on the concrete first and then use an underlay which has an integrated moisture barrier, regardless of the RH of the slab.
Check that the subfloor is level and prepare the floor if necessary as per above.
If installing onto existing floorboards we recommend installing Lalegno across the existing floorboards.
On a Concrete Substrate:
Check that the subfloor is level and prepare the floor if necessary as per above.
Relative humidity (RH) of the concrete must be measured prior to installation.
We strongly recommend putting a plastic sheet (PE) of 0.2mm or thicker on the concrete first and then use an underlay which has an integrated moisture barrier, regardless of the RH of the slab.
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Underlay:
There are may underlays available in New Zealand for floating timber floor installations. If your substrate is concrete, it is important that you use an underlay which has an integrated moisture barrier, such as "Roberts Harmony" (Image 4). We are happy to advise the best underlay for your application. |
We strongly recommend using a crosslinking PVA glue (e.g. Roberts) for the interlocking system when installing Lalegno as a floating floor installation. This eliminates possible squeaking noises that may occur with floating floors.There are may underlays available in New Zealand for floating timber floor installations.
If your substrate is concrete, it is important that you use an underlay which has an integrated moisture barrier, such as "Roberts Harmony" (Image 4).
We are happy to advise the best underlay for your application.
We strongly recommend using a crosslinking PVA glue (e.g. Roberts) for the interlocking system when installing Lalegno as a floating floor installation. This eliminates possible squeaking noises that may occur with floating floors.
If your substrate is concrete, it is important that you use an underlay which has an integrated moisture barrier, such as "Roberts Harmony" (Image 4).
We are happy to advise the best underlay for your application.
We strongly recommend using a crosslinking PVA glue (e.g. Roberts) for the interlocking system when installing Lalegno as a floating floor installation. This eliminates possible squeaking noises that may occur with floating floors.
INSTALLATION
Prior to installing boards, ensure substrate is level.
If floating the floor, lay out the underlay according to manufacturer's instructions.
If gluing down the floor, only use adhesive as the installation progresses. If substrate is concrete, seal with moisture barrier according to manufacturer's instructions.
Open 2-3 packs to begin with and mix the boards, then open packs as required. Check all boards prior to installing for damage/defects. Should you find a defective/damaged board, this can be installed in an unexposed area (ie under a dishwasher or fridge) or in a cupboard/wardrobe if applicable.
Laying direction:
Try to lay the boards in the direction of incoming light or parallel to the longer wall.
If you lay Lalegno on an existing T&G wooden floor, it is recommended you lay the boards crosswise.
Expansion allowance:
Please ensure you read and understand the introduction of this installation guide.
If floating the floor, lay out the underlay according to manufacturer's instructions.
If gluing down the floor, only use adhesive as the installation progresses. If substrate is concrete, seal with moisture barrier according to manufacturer's instructions.
Open 2-3 packs to begin with and mix the boards, then open packs as required. Check all boards prior to installing for damage/defects. Should you find a defective/damaged board, this can be installed in an unexposed area (ie under a dishwasher or fridge) or in a cupboard/wardrobe if applicable.
Laying direction:
Try to lay the boards in the direction of incoming light or parallel to the longer wall.
If you lay Lalegno on an existing T&G wooden floor, it is recommended you lay the boards crosswise.
Expansion allowance:
Please ensure you read and understand the introduction of this installation guide.
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The timber comes in shrink wrapped packs with a moisture content lower than the New Zealand environment. This means the timber will start expanding as soon as you open a pack.
Once the installed Lalegno floor has acclimatised to the environment, expansion from thereon will be according to the relative humidity of the air, but never back to its original size. |
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With any timber floor and expansion, the golden rule is: "less is more"!
Leave as much expansion as you can around the perimeters, preferably at least 7-10mm. The gap can be covered with skirting boards, cover strips, quad moulding, etc (Image 5).
Use wedges to maintain the expansion gap when installing.
Remember to also leave expansion gaps around thresholds, pillars, etc. and to undercut door frames.
Please note: Lalegno expands 6 times more across the width of a board than across the length.
If you decide to install Lalegno as a floating floor please note the following:
After every 8 linear meters of installed Lalegno, an expansion joint must be inserted, regardless of the laying direction.
In larger open plan areas we recommend lining up the gib boards approximately 20mm off the ground or undercutting them to achieve more room for expansion.
Lalegno expands substantially more if installed as a floating floor than as a glue down.
Starting place:
Ensure skirting boards and kitchen toe kicks are removed / off.
Measure the width of the room, and calculate how many rows of boards are required. If the width of the last row is less than 40mm, cut the first row of boards to a narrower width.
Start from a solid wall. First check with a cord that the wall is straight. A straight and solid starting line is crucial for successful installation. When necessary, draw a line matching the shape of the wall on the first boards and cut them to that shape.
Installing:
Install the boards from left to right (Image 6). Always remove the tongues from the first row of boards to ensure the expansion gap is wide enough. Do this with beginning and end joints too.
Install the next board with its short side (Image 7) at an angle to the previous board, and lower the board carefully onto the floor, while pushing the end groove and tongue joints together. Proceed in this manner to the end of the first row.
** You can 'ease' the end joint into the locking position by slightly waggling the board up and down while installing it.
Be careful not to damage the end cleat. Be careful not to bend the boards forcibly, since this causes micro-fractures in the varnished surface.
Cut the last board of the row to size, taking the expansion gap into account, and install the board.
** You can achieve the correct length by turning the short side tongue to face the wall, and marking the correct cut-off point (Image 8).
Leave as much expansion as you can around the perimeters, preferably at least 7-10mm. The gap can be covered with skirting boards, cover strips, quad moulding, etc (Image 5).
Use wedges to maintain the expansion gap when installing.
Remember to also leave expansion gaps around thresholds, pillars, etc. and to undercut door frames.
Please note: Lalegno expands 6 times more across the width of a board than across the length.
If you decide to install Lalegno as a floating floor please note the following:
After every 8 linear meters of installed Lalegno, an expansion joint must be inserted, regardless of the laying direction.
In larger open plan areas we recommend lining up the gib boards approximately 20mm off the ground or undercutting them to achieve more room for expansion.
Lalegno expands substantially more if installed as a floating floor than as a glue down.
Starting place:
Ensure skirting boards and kitchen toe kicks are removed / off.
Measure the width of the room, and calculate how many rows of boards are required. If the width of the last row is less than 40mm, cut the first row of boards to a narrower width.
Start from a solid wall. First check with a cord that the wall is straight. A straight and solid starting line is crucial for successful installation. When necessary, draw a line matching the shape of the wall on the first boards and cut them to that shape.
Installing:
Install the boards from left to right (Image 6). Always remove the tongues from the first row of boards to ensure the expansion gap is wide enough. Do this with beginning and end joints too.
Install the next board with its short side (Image 7) at an angle to the previous board, and lower the board carefully onto the floor, while pushing the end groove and tongue joints together. Proceed in this manner to the end of the first row.
** You can 'ease' the end joint into the locking position by slightly waggling the board up and down while installing it.
Be careful not to damage the end cleat. Be careful not to bend the boards forcibly, since this causes micro-fractures in the varnished surface.
Cut the last board of the row to size, taking the expansion gap into account, and install the board.
** You can achieve the correct length by turning the short side tongue to face the wall, and marking the correct cut-off point (Image 8).
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Start the next row with the left-over piece (if this is less than 500mm, then discard, cut a board in half, and begin). The overlap should be no less than 500mm (Image 9).
Install the next row's first board at a slight angle to the previous row's board and lay it on the floor (Image 10). If there is a slight gap between the joints, make sure that the previous row's board groove is clean.
Use an installation wedge (45 degree cut block of timber), place around 50mm from the end of the previously installed board (Image 11).
Install the next row's first board at a slight angle to the previous row's board and lay it on the floor (Image 10). If there is a slight gap between the joints, make sure that the previous row's board groove is clean.
Use an installation wedge (45 degree cut block of timber), place around 50mm from the end of the previously installed board (Image 11).
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First install the next board's short side at a slight angle to the previous board, and then install the long side. Push the board simultaneously forward and downwards towards the floor at a similar angle to the previous board (Image 12).
Remove the wedge and tap (not bang!) the boards into place with the edge, making the side joints tight in the process (Image 13).
Please see under Tips & Tricks for further information regarding overstriking.
After installing three to four rows, check the wooden floor's expansion gaps, and adjust if necessary.
As you progress through the installation please note that the joints for adjoining rows should be staggered randomly and never less than 500mm apart. This is particularly crucial when installing Lalegno as a floating floor installation (Image 14).
Remove the wedge and tap (not bang!) the boards into place with the edge, making the side joints tight in the process (Image 13).
Please see under Tips & Tricks for further information regarding overstriking.
After installing three to four rows, check the wooden floor's expansion gaps, and adjust if necessary.
As you progress through the installation please note that the joints for adjoining rows should be staggered randomly and never less than 500mm apart. This is particularly crucial when installing Lalegno as a floating floor installation (Image 14).
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Last Row:
Measure the width required by the last row of boards at several points (remembering the expansion gap), mark the cutting line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Install the boards and tighten them into place.
If the last row of boards must be installed under a door frame, cut away the locking edge (Image 15), apply crosslinking PVA glue to the groove, and install the board (Image 16).
Measure the width required by the last row of boards at several points (remembering the expansion gap), mark the cutting line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Install the boards and tighten them into place.
If the last row of boards must be installed under a door frame, cut away the locking edge (Image 15), apply crosslinking PVA glue to the groove, and install the board (Image 16).
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Finishing:
Wipe any glue stains off the floor with a damp cloth.
Install the skirting boards, kitchen toe kicks, trim bars, etc. Do not install the skirtings too tightly against the floor, or fasten the bars through the wooden floor as this will restrict the floor's natural movement.
Wipe any glue stains off the floor with a damp cloth.
Install the skirting boards, kitchen toe kicks, trim bars, etc. Do not install the skirtings too tightly against the floor, or fasten the bars through the wooden floor as this will restrict the floor's natural movement.
TIPS & TRICKS
Cutting Door Frames, Undercutting Skirtings, etc:
Place a loose board (plus underlay if being used) on the floor next to the door frame/skirting. This will give you the correct height to saw into the door frame and enable you to push the boards under, while taking a sufficient expansion gap into account (Image 17).
Narrow Hallways / Galley Kitchens:
If you are doing a floating floor installation, and the installation direction is crosswise eg a narrow hallway (Images 18 & 19), cut the backing & middle layer of all the boards at two or three points. These cuts should be made diagonally to every board at a 45 degree angle either by using a saw or carpet knife. Please ensure you don't cut into the top/wear layer.
Do not use full length boards only in these areas! You have to make an end joint for every second row of boards (ie. two half boards in a row).
Place a loose board (plus underlay if being used) on the floor next to the door frame/skirting. This will give you the correct height to saw into the door frame and enable you to push the boards under, while taking a sufficient expansion gap into account (Image 17).
Narrow Hallways / Galley Kitchens:
If you are doing a floating floor installation, and the installation direction is crosswise eg a narrow hallway (Images 18 & 19), cut the backing & middle layer of all the boards at two or three points. These cuts should be made diagonally to every board at a 45 degree angle either by using a saw or carpet knife. Please ensure you don't cut into the top/wear layer.
Do not use full length boards only in these areas! You have to make an end joint for every second row of boards (ie. two half boards in a row).
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Removing the Locking Edge:
If you cannot tilt a board lengthwise or width-wise when installing, you can remove the locking edge by using a chisel or similar (Image 15). The board can then be installed by sliding it horizontally. In these cases, you should apply crosslinking PVA glue to the tongue-and-groove structure.
Overstriking:
Overstriking occurs when the cells of the timber are damaged at the edge of the flooring. This can happen by placing a tapping block, or worse an offcut, at the wrong spot when tapping the boards together. Splintering may then occur, not immediately, but up to a few months after installation. See Image 20a & 20b for correct placement of block.
If you cannot tilt a board lengthwise or width-wise when installing, you can remove the locking edge by using a chisel or similar (Image 15). The board can then be installed by sliding it horizontally. In these cases, you should apply crosslinking PVA glue to the tongue-and-groove structure.
Overstriking:
Overstriking occurs when the cells of the timber are damaged at the edge of the flooring. This can happen by placing a tapping block, or worse an offcut, at the wrong spot when tapping the boards together. Splintering may then occur, not immediately, but up to a few months after installation. See Image 20a & 20b for correct placement of block.
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Disclaimer:
Responsibility lies with the person who is installing to determine if the sub-floor is acceptable for the timber flooring installation. Quality Floors Ltd (QFL) is not responsible for timber flooring failure due to sub-floor deficiencies or lack of preparation.
Lalegno is a natural wood product. Therefore natural variations in colour, tone and grain are to be expected. Again, it is the responsibility of the person installing to inspect each Lalegno board carefully before installation.
QFL does not take responsibility for boards with visible defects once they are installed. QFL will not take any responsibility for moisture issues caused by the subfloor, trades people or faulty appliances. QFL can not be held liable for any installation related potential issues eg expansion, uneven subfloor or moisture issues.
Responsibility lies with the person who is installing to determine if the sub-floor is acceptable for the timber flooring installation. Quality Floors Ltd (QFL) is not responsible for timber flooring failure due to sub-floor deficiencies or lack of preparation.
Lalegno is a natural wood product. Therefore natural variations in colour, tone and grain are to be expected. Again, it is the responsibility of the person installing to inspect each Lalegno board carefully before installation.
QFL does not take responsibility for boards with visible defects once they are installed. QFL will not take any responsibility for moisture issues caused by the subfloor, trades people or faulty appliances. QFL can not be held liable for any installation related potential issues eg expansion, uneven subfloor or moisture issues.
VENETO MAINTENANCE GUIDE
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You can also download it here. |
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The surface of Veneto wood flooring has been pre-finished with UV-hardened acrylic lacquer or oil/wax.
In order to maintain the beauty of your Karelia floor, follow our simple maintenance instructions. |
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Post Installation Maintenance:
Immediately after installation of your new Karelia floor, please note the following:
- Do not tape protective materials to the floor (eg cardboard, etc) - these could damage the surface
- UV radiation from the sun alters wood colour over time, especially in New Zealand, which has the highest UV-light in the world. We recommend the following:
- Do not put mats and rugs on the floor straight after the installation
- Once mats are placed (see Preventative Care below) move them around for the first 6 months
Variations in colour - such as carpet outlines - will even out over time as they are exposed to daylight
Preventative Care:
Preventing damage is the best treatment for your Karelia floor:
- Place mats on both sides of all exterior doors, so that as little grit and other dirt as possible is carried onto the floor
- Put plastic mats in entrances under shoe/coat areas to prevent water damage
- Never drag furniture or whiteware - place a carpet offcut upside down underneath the furniture and push it carefully
- Remove stains while they are still fresh - usually just a little water or a mild detergent will be sufficient
- In order to protect the floor from scratches, use felt pads under all your furniture
- Avoid scrubbing with abrasive equipment or using strong solvents
- Remove any grit or other abrasives immediately
- Take your shoes off - never wear stiletto heels
- Ensure you keep your pets' nails short
- Use a plastic mat under your office chair
- Prevent water being trodden onto the floor
- Wipe up spills immediately
- Place dishes/trays under pot plants
Cleaning & Maintenance:
Regular care of Karelia flooring involves only the following:
- Remove loose sand and dust with a vacuum cleaner or a brush
- To clean your floor more thoroughly, it can be washed with a mild detergent (pH 6-8) and a microfiber mop/pad
- Use as little water as possible when cleaning (almost dry wipe). If visible moisture does not evaporate within a minute, you are using
too much water (the key is to minimise the use of water!)
- Never use a steam mop to clean your hardwood flooring - hot steam and timber are a no go!
- Clean stains immediately
- We recommend using professional cleaning kits (microfiber mop with cleaning solution)
Removal of Stains:
The fresher the spot, the easier it will be to remove. For stain removal use the substances mentioned in the table below.
Immediately after installation of your new Karelia floor, please note the following:
- Do not tape protective materials to the floor (eg cardboard, etc) - these could damage the surface
- UV radiation from the sun alters wood colour over time, especially in New Zealand, which has the highest UV-light in the world. We recommend the following:
- Do not put mats and rugs on the floor straight after the installation
- Once mats are placed (see Preventative Care below) move them around for the first 6 months
Variations in colour - such as carpet outlines - will even out over time as they are exposed to daylight
Preventative Care:
Preventing damage is the best treatment for your Karelia floor:
- Place mats on both sides of all exterior doors, so that as little grit and other dirt as possible is carried onto the floor
- Put plastic mats in entrances under shoe/coat areas to prevent water damage
- Never drag furniture or whiteware - place a carpet offcut upside down underneath the furniture and push it carefully
- Remove stains while they are still fresh - usually just a little water or a mild detergent will be sufficient
- In order to protect the floor from scratches, use felt pads under all your furniture
- Avoid scrubbing with abrasive equipment or using strong solvents
- Remove any grit or other abrasives immediately
- Take your shoes off - never wear stiletto heels
- Ensure you keep your pets' nails short
- Use a plastic mat under your office chair
- Prevent water being trodden onto the floor
- Wipe up spills immediately
- Place dishes/trays under pot plants
Cleaning & Maintenance:
Regular care of Karelia flooring involves only the following:
- Remove loose sand and dust with a vacuum cleaner or a brush
- To clean your floor more thoroughly, it can be washed with a mild detergent (pH 6-8) and a microfiber mop/pad
- Use as little water as possible when cleaning (almost dry wipe). If visible moisture does not evaporate within a minute, you are using
too much water (the key is to minimise the use of water!)
- Never use a steam mop to clean your hardwood flooring - hot steam and timber are a no go!
- Clean stains immediately
- We recommend using professional cleaning kits (microfiber mop with cleaning solution)
Removal of Stains:
The fresher the spot, the easier it will be to remove. For stain removal use the substances mentioned in the table below.
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Stain
Asphalt, rubber, oil, show polish, soot, chocolate & grease Crayons, lipstick, felt tip pens, ball-point pen Candle wax, chewing gum Blood Fruit, berries, juices, milk, cream, soft drinks, beer, wine, coffee, tea, urine |
Stain Remover
Mineral turpentine, surgical spirit, petroleum ether, or similar Surgical spirit or denatured alcohol Freeze-spray or put a plastic bag of ice cubes on the mark, then scrape off carefully Cold water Cleansing solution or synthetic cleaning agent |
Surface Reconditioning - Oil/Wax Finished Floors Only:
How often the floor requires maintaining with oil depends on use, cleaning, exposure to sun light and personal preference. In most cases, surface reconditioning isn't necessary. For their pre-finished oil/wax timber floors, Karelia uses Osmo oils, which are available in New Zealand.
Remove loose dust and dirt from the floor with a vacuum cleaner and clean the worn area as per Cleaning & Maintenance above. There is no need to sand the surface - simply follow the Osmo instructions.
These are the Osmo product codes for the Karelia floors we offer:
Karelia Arctic, Stonewashed Ivory 3111
Karelia Antique, Stonewashed Ebony 3168
Karelia Stonewashed Clay 3192
Karelia Stonewashed Charcoal 3170
Please contact us for recommendations on where you can buy Osmo oils.
Karelia Installed in a Bach, Holiday Home or Vacant Property:
Your Karelia timber floor is made out of a natural material (wood) and reacts to changes in air humidity (the floor expands and contracts).
If a house is locked up/vacant for several weeks or months at a time, this could affect how the wooden floor behaves. For example, in summer the house heats up to higher than normal, and in winter colder than normal. In the worst case, gaps could appear (through shrinking of the boards) or the floor could start lifting (when expansion is reached with a floating floor installation). The manufacturer, importer, retailer or installer cannot be held liable for this!
Therefore, ensure the house is well ventilated while you are away - ask a neighbour to open doors or windows periodically, and if you have a ventilation system set it to its minimum level.
Karelia Installed in a Brand New House:
In a new house all building products need time to acclimatise. Paint is still drying, etc.
As above, ventilation is the key: ensure the house is properly ventilated, windows opened, etc.
Should you have any queries regarding maintaining your new Karelia floor, please don't hesitate to contact us.
How often the floor requires maintaining with oil depends on use, cleaning, exposure to sun light and personal preference. In most cases, surface reconditioning isn't necessary. For their pre-finished oil/wax timber floors, Karelia uses Osmo oils, which are available in New Zealand.
Remove loose dust and dirt from the floor with a vacuum cleaner and clean the worn area as per Cleaning & Maintenance above. There is no need to sand the surface - simply follow the Osmo instructions.
These are the Osmo product codes for the Karelia floors we offer:
Karelia Arctic, Stonewashed Ivory 3111
Karelia Antique, Stonewashed Ebony 3168
Karelia Stonewashed Clay 3192
Karelia Stonewashed Charcoal 3170
Please contact us for recommendations on where you can buy Osmo oils.
Karelia Installed in a Bach, Holiday Home or Vacant Property:
Your Karelia timber floor is made out of a natural material (wood) and reacts to changes in air humidity (the floor expands and contracts).
If a house is locked up/vacant for several weeks or months at a time, this could affect how the wooden floor behaves. For example, in summer the house heats up to higher than normal, and in winter colder than normal. In the worst case, gaps could appear (through shrinking of the boards) or the floor could start lifting (when expansion is reached with a floating floor installation). The manufacturer, importer, retailer or installer cannot be held liable for this!
Therefore, ensure the house is well ventilated while you are away - ask a neighbour to open doors or windows periodically, and if you have a ventilation system set it to its minimum level.
Karelia Installed in a Brand New House:
In a new house all building products need time to acclimatise. Paint is still drying, etc.
As above, ventilation is the key: ensure the house is properly ventilated, windows opened, etc.
Should you have any queries regarding maintaining your new Karelia floor, please don't hesitate to contact us.
LALEGNO 20-YEAR RESIDENTIAL WARRANTY
Please see below a summary of what is covered by Lalegno's 20-year Residential Warranty.
Limited Warranty Program:
The warranties listed below apply to pre-finished engineered Lalegno products.
Structural Warranty:
Quality Floors Ltd (QFL) is only responsible for manufacturing faults. This guarantee is valid for 10 years from the moment of purchase. The guarantee covers normal use of the floor but is null and void if the floor is installed in damp or humid spaces.
Refinishing Warranty:
QFL warrants that Lalegno pre-finished products can be sanded and refinished up to two (2) times by removing the existing finish entirely and replacing with a new compatible finish. A professional floor refinisher must perform this process. Screening, which does not remove the surface finish entirely, can be performed numerous times over the lifetime of the product. Since QFL has no control over the actual resurfacing process, once the factory finish is altered or removed, this will void the warranty of the product.
Warranty Coverage in General:
It is imperative that all installations are done in compliance with the procedures outlined in the Lalegno Installation Instructions (see Installation Guide). Failure to install in accordance with the instructions will void all warranties.
The appearance of colour changes, the occurrence of openings and/or open seams, surface variations and malformations, for example from ageing of the floor, climatic changes or use, are not covered by this guarantee.
No warranty coverage is provided for flooring that contains obvious defects of any kind prior to installation, but was installed nonetheless.
If before installation you discover any flooring that has obvious defects please contact QFL immediately.
The guarantee given is only valid for the floor components supplied. This means that the manufacture cannot be held liable for labour costs, man-hours, the cost of additional materials or any other loss incurred.
Limited Warranty Program:
The warranties listed below apply to pre-finished engineered Lalegno products.
Structural Warranty:
Quality Floors Ltd (QFL) is only responsible for manufacturing faults. This guarantee is valid for 10 years from the moment of purchase. The guarantee covers normal use of the floor but is null and void if the floor is installed in damp or humid spaces.
Refinishing Warranty:
QFL warrants that Lalegno pre-finished products can be sanded and refinished up to two (2) times by removing the existing finish entirely and replacing with a new compatible finish. A professional floor refinisher must perform this process. Screening, which does not remove the surface finish entirely, can be performed numerous times over the lifetime of the product. Since QFL has no control over the actual resurfacing process, once the factory finish is altered or removed, this will void the warranty of the product.
Warranty Coverage in General:
It is imperative that all installations are done in compliance with the procedures outlined in the Lalegno Installation Instructions (see Installation Guide). Failure to install in accordance with the instructions will void all warranties.
The appearance of colour changes, the occurrence of openings and/or open seams, surface variations and malformations, for example from ageing of the floor, climatic changes or use, are not covered by this guarantee.
No warranty coverage is provided for flooring that contains obvious defects of any kind prior to installation, but was installed nonetheless.
If before installation you discover any flooring that has obvious defects please contact QFL immediately.
The guarantee given is only valid for the floor components supplied. This means that the manufacture cannot be held liable for labour costs, man-hours, the cost of additional materials or any other loss incurred.
VENETO PRODUCT DATA / SPECIFICATIONS
Product Description:
- 10 / 14 / 15mm, prefinished, engineered timber flooring (floating / glued down) - manufactured according to EN 13489
Technical Properties:
- Length 1860 / 1900 / 2200mm
- Width 148 / 189 / 190 / 220 / 260mm
- Thickness Approx. 10 / 14 / 15mm
- 10mm thick product: Hardwood surface thickness Approx. 2.5mm
Bottom layer thickness Approx. 7.5mm (poplar ply)
- 14mm thick products: Hardwood surface thickness Approx. 3mm
Middle layer thickness Approx. 9mm (poplar)
Bottom layer thickness Approx. 2mm (poplar veneer)
- 15mm thick products: Hardwood surface thickness Approx. 4mm
Middle layer thickness Approx. 9mm (poplar)
Bottom layer thickness Approx. 2mm (poplar veneer)
- Locking system 10mm & 15mm products Unilin GO2 or L2C
14mm products Valinge 5G
- Height difference ± 0.2mm tolerance
- Moisture during first delivery 10 ±2% tolerance
- Thermal conductivity λ 14,00 (W/mK) R= 0.11m2 k/w
- Hardness on Brinell Scale Oak 2.9 - 3.7
Iroko 3.2 - 3.8
Surface Characteristics:
- Treffert 5° gloss coating
- UV-hardened lacquer finish
- 1x primer, 1x basecoat, 4x topcoats
- Bevel: 4 sides
- Structure: Brushed
Packaging and Marking (EN 13489):
- One pack containing six / eight / twelve boards
- Up to 15 / 20% random / nested length
- Pack weight approx. 20kg - 27kg, dependent on product
- Packs are covered with cardboard and shrink wrapped with PE-membrane
Safety, Quality and Additional Data:
- Emission of formaldehyde (ENV 717-1): E1 (< 0.001 mg/m3)
- Reaction to Fire: Products meet the requirements of Class Dfl - s1 (EN 14342:2005 and EN 13501-1 part 1)
- Pentachlorophenol Content (EN 14342:2005): <5 ppm
- Biological Durability (EN 14342:2005): Class 1
- 10 / 14 / 15mm, prefinished, engineered timber flooring (floating / glued down) - manufactured according to EN 13489
Technical Properties:
- Length 1860 / 1900 / 2200mm
- Width 148 / 189 / 190 / 220 / 260mm
- Thickness Approx. 10 / 14 / 15mm
- 10mm thick product: Hardwood surface thickness Approx. 2.5mm
Bottom layer thickness Approx. 7.5mm (poplar ply)
- 14mm thick products: Hardwood surface thickness Approx. 3mm
Middle layer thickness Approx. 9mm (poplar)
Bottom layer thickness Approx. 2mm (poplar veneer)
- 15mm thick products: Hardwood surface thickness Approx. 4mm
Middle layer thickness Approx. 9mm (poplar)
Bottom layer thickness Approx. 2mm (poplar veneer)
- Locking system 10mm & 15mm products Unilin GO2 or L2C
14mm products Valinge 5G
- Height difference ± 0.2mm tolerance
- Moisture during first delivery 10 ±2% tolerance
- Thermal conductivity λ 14,00 (W/mK) R= 0.11m2 k/w
- Hardness on Brinell Scale Oak 2.9 - 3.7
Iroko 3.2 - 3.8
Surface Characteristics:
- Treffert 5° gloss coating
- UV-hardened lacquer finish
- 1x primer, 1x basecoat, 4x topcoats
- Bevel: 4 sides
- Structure: Brushed
Packaging and Marking (EN 13489):
- One pack containing six / eight / twelve boards
- Up to 15 / 20% random / nested length
- Pack weight approx. 20kg - 27kg, dependent on product
- Packs are covered with cardboard and shrink wrapped with PE-membrane
Safety, Quality and Additional Data:
- Emission of formaldehyde (ENV 717-1): E1 (< 0.001 mg/m3)
- Reaction to Fire: Products meet the requirements of Class Dfl - s1 (EN 14342:2005 and EN 13501-1 part 1)
- Pentachlorophenol Content (EN 14342:2005): <5 ppm
- Biological Durability (EN 14342:2005): Class 1
VENETO DOWNLOAD CENTREPlease find below all downloads relating to Lalegno timber flooring.
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Quality Floors - 100% Kiwi Owned & Operated
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ABOUT QFL
Quality Floors Ltd (QFL) has been operating since 2006 and has become one of the leading importers of prefinished and unfinished engineered timber floors in New Zealand. All our products are of high quality and have comprehensive warranties. You can also find us at https://archipro.co.nz/professional/quality-floors.
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